Mellem Landet (The middle Land) is a narrow mountainous and rugged piece of land close to the ice cap. South Greenland’s airport Narsarsuaq is located on Mellem Landet just next to Tunulliarfik fjord. The land is enclosed by two big glaciers which gently slide from the interior ice cap to the ocean. One of the two glaciers doesn’t reach the fjord anymore nowadays. The Kuusuaq river which drains Kuussuup Sermia glacier (kuussuup sermia means the glacier of the big river) is so big that there is no possibility to ford the river. So the hiking opportunities on Mellem Landet are only limited to a few days, ideal to end my long stay on Greenland.
It was late afternoon when I arrived at Narsarsuaq airport. A small Inuit settlement with a grocery store is located next to the airport. All the inhabitants are employed at the airport or in tourism services. After a resupply at the grocery store, I started the long hike through Blomsterdalen while the landscape slowly became more interesting. At the valley head where the Kuusuaq river runs out of a canyon, a steep climb followed to reach the mountain plateau of Mellem Landet. The climb was partly secured with ropes. A few steps along some small mountain lakes on the plateau and I reached a nice bivouac place with view over the tongue of Kuussuup Sermia.
The next day I searched my way further north on Mellem Landet while the terrain became more rugged the further I approached the northern point of the peninsula. The viewpoint north of point 1102m where the two glaciers separate would be my destination for the day. Only rock and snowfields remained when I reached point 1102m but the views over the surroundings were amazing. Both Kuussuup Sermia and Qooqqup Sermia were mostly visible further north along the top of the central mountain ridge and spectacular mountains arose in the northeast on the opposite side of the glacier. In the northwest Valhaltinden demanded all attention. A big lake with drifting icebergs was lying at the feet of the mountain.
It was difficult to find a place to pitch my tarp at the northern edge of Mellem Landet. After a lot of searching I found a small flat piece of moss on the rocks, just large enough to ditch the stakes. I enjoyed the views over the ice cap while the sun made its way to the horizon. There even was a constant abrasive sound to hear. The noise came from the ice below, slowly sliding its way to the ocean. Despite the sound it was quiet and peaceful there. I felt completely alone on earth, a perfect evening!
The next morning I awoke in a fog and got lost on my way back to the south. There is absolutely no possibility to orientate in dense fog on Mellem Landet since recognizable points in the landscape are completely absent. I tried to stay on route by orientating with my map and compass the best I could, but after a while I noticed Kuussuup Sermia glacier below when I arrived at the edge of an abyss on the west side of the plateau. Oh no! This was completely wrong! I wanted to stay heading for the mouth of Qooqqup Sermia in the fjord at the east side of Mellem Landet. I then tried to go southeast in search for the “Glacier of the valley”. Luckily the clouds slowly began to lift and gradually visibility improved drastically so it was not that difficult anymore at the end to find the viewpoint above the glacier front. The fjord was all white, completely covered with crumbled ice.
I stayed admiring the crumbling ice of the glacier front for an hour and finally returned to the valley head of Blomsterdalen. The next day I walked back to the airport through the valley and waited for my plane to leave. On the plane I could admire the ice cap and the east coast from 30.000ft. Greenland is so amazing and beautifully rugged. Next time I definitely should bring my packraft!