The Magic Packraft Circle

Last weekend 19 outdoor enthusiasts gathered along the Semois river in the south of Belgium to take part in the first packrafting weekend organized by Hiking Advisor, a Flemish online social hiking medium. Willem and I were the guides on the water while Debbie was involved in all the camping related affairs. A few of us had our own packraft, while the rest of us had never touched a packraft before and now borrowed one from the European packrafting store or from Off-Trail.

Semois 201304
The Semois river near Lacuisine, our put in.

We had a lot of fun and the group learned what packrafting is like. For many it became clear that blowing up the raft for the first time is not so easy if you don’t know the proper technique, that putting in on a steep bank or with a fast current can use some help from another person, that it is possible to accidentally have your paddle blades reversed and that the river always asks for attention or the sooner or later you will hit a rock. The swans were also present and were not always happy with our presence now the breeding season had started. Kevin almost got a kamikaze attack on him.

Semois 201304
Paddling break at noon.

Semois 201304
Lunch.

Semois 201304
The Semois river from the vantage point near Roche Brulée.

At noon we put out in the forest to take a lunch break in the sun. Afterwards we hiked onto the ridge and visited a vantage point overlooking a meander of the river. Then we put in again and paddled passed the picturesque village of Chassepierre to Camping de la Semois, our stay for the night. After dinner we parroted with some strong Belgian beers at the local pub and when the pub closed its doors some of us could not get enough from the Jägermeister after party in the tipi tent.

Semois 201304
Let’s stick close together.

Semois 201304
In the pub.

Semois 201304
Debbie has some work to do tomorrow.

Semois 201304
Belgian beers for you to cheer.

Not surprisingly a few of us awoke with a heavy head the next morning, though that changed rapidly when we started paddling again in the fresh air. We amused ourselves with sticking close together and creating a long multi packraft raft. Then the idea arose to form a circle on the river with our packrafts. This didn’t look so easy to accomplish at first until Debbie found the key. Keep the butt of your neighbor further away from you! And so suddenly the magic packraft circle appeared!

Semois 201304
Putting in again after portage of the weir of Bois de Ste-Cécile.

Semois 201304
Again lunch break.

In the last kilometers on the river we had a small accident as someone accidentally ripped a long tear in the tail of its raft when hitting something sharp while coming down a weir. Everybody got worried when we saw the person fighting against getting trapped in the raft as it lost all its air. Fortunately everything went off well and the group learned to better never trust all human made obstacles in the river when packrafting.

Semois 201304
The magic packraft circle!

We put out eventually, folded and packed our rafts and then hiked out towards the nearest train station. The end of an enjoyable and successful packrafting weekend!

Packrafting the Ourthe – a 30 hours hike and paddle in the Ardennes


A few days of rain filled the buckets again and so I went to the Ardennes. The Ourthe river had already been a playground for me a few times. Last year I paddled the river till the confluence with the Amblève river starting from its west fork. The east fork, Ourthe Orientale, was yet unexplored terrain for my packraft.

Ourthe 201304
The Ourthe valley from Rocher de Hérou.

Friday I started at the Rochers de Hérou and hiked upstream for a day, passing the Nisramont reservoir and made a nice stroll along the Ruisseau de Martin Moulin to bivouac in the forest on the plateau. Rain and hail showers were alternated by sunny spells. The showers continued throughout the night while passing deer kept me out of my sleep several times.

Ourthe 201304
View over the Nisramont reservoir from the hiking trail.

Next day was dry and sunny and I descended down the valley again to meet the Ourthe Orientale in the village of Houffalize where I put in. Already during the first minutes I suddenly banged onto something below the waterline. It sounded more like a metal rod than a rock. Only half an hour later I realized there must have been beaten a hole in the bottom of my raft since I suddenly felt sitting with my butt in a pool of cold water.

Ourthe 201304
Crossing the Belle Meuse creek before it joins the Martin Moulin.

At leaving Houffalize I suddenly scared a beaver sitting very close at the waterline below a bluff. I didn’t notice him until he made its move towards me. The animal jumped against my raft, then dived underwater and kept sticking stiffened onto the bottom of the river as I watched him behind my back. He scared me too to say the least.

Ourthe 201304
At the banks of Ourthe Orientale.

Many kilometers downstream a tree strainer forced me to make a short portage. While pulling my packraft out of the river I noticed the hole in the bottom. It was only so small that it took an hour or so to fill the raft with water. Moreover I wore my drysuit so I didn’t really bother about it.

Ourthe 201304
The Ourthe river under Rocher de Hérou.

Passed the reservoir of Nisramont I quickly arrived at the rock cliffs of Hérou were a famous boulder garden is encountered. Yet I succeeded again to be so inattentive that I suddenly parked my raft atop of a boulder, just like the last time on the river. A little further I could enjoy playing in a surf wave before I put out. Then I climbed the rocky ridge of Hérou and completed this attractive 30 hours loop.

Ourthe 201304
Somebody has polished its teeth.

Ourthe 201304
The surf waves under Rocher de Hérou.

24 Western Scheldt: Tidal water rafting between metal marine giants

Westerschelde 20120726
Summer sunrise over the Drowned Land of Saeftinghe.

A few days ago Yves and me went to the Western Scheldt estuary to make an interesting packraft day trip. The Western Scheldt is the funnel shaped mouth of the Scheldt river where the sea tides of the Northsea reverse the water flow in the river twice a day, making the water levels rise and drop every time by 6 meters. Many sandbars emerge above the water line in the estuary at each low tide and mudflats and salt marshes surround the estuary on many places with the Drowned Land of Saeftinghe being the biggest brackish marsh in Western Europe. What is more unique is the marine traffic that is continuously taking place through the estuary between the Northsea and the seaport of Antwerp, which is lying 70km inland from the sea as the crow flies. The Western Scheldt is a very interesting packrafting destination but at the same time the most dangerous place to do some flat water packrafting seen the strong tidal currents, all the ships passing by and the winds that can easily blow you away from the shore into the sea lane where the marine ships are passing through and guess what, no they don’t give way for a mortal packrafting soul! The weather forecast promised us weak winds staying ashore and sunny weather with temperatures up to 30 degrees Celsius. Now, don’t stay dally with such circumstances!

Wednesday evening we headed to the small town of Paal along the southern shore of the estuary and searched a place to spend the night in our bivy bags. That we found on a dyke between the fields. At five o’clock in the morning, the sun even didn’t show up yet at the horizon, we took our stuff and headed for the brackish water. We had to start so early to profit from the current going inland before high tide was reached, otherwise we couldn’t make it to the Drowned Land of Saeftinghe as the currents in the estuary are stronger then the speed one can paddle upstream with a packraft. And so we made a nice day trip on the Western Scheldt and through the many creeks of Saeftinghe. The pictures tell the story.

Westerschelde 20120726
Continuing towards Antwerp along the shore with the rising tide after crossing the Speelmansgat creek.

Westerschelde 20120726
Giant marine ships pass through the sea lane.

Westerschelde 20120726
A seal in the distance. Unfortunately I didn’t succeed taking a closer picture even though they came a lot closer than this. We saw about 5 individual seals.

Westerschelde 20120726
Rest stop at high tide after crossing the Ijskeldergat creek.

Westerschelde 20120726
Yet another container ship heading for the seaport of Antwerp.

Westerschelde 20120726
Rest stop at the mouth of the Hondegat creek with the seaport of Antwerp at the horizon.

Westerschelde 20120726
View over the mouth of the Hondegat creek and the bend in the Scheldt bearing the name Nauw van Bath.

Westerschelde 20120726
Sea mollusks living in brakkish Saeftinghe.

Westerschelde 20120726
The water levels are dropping quickly and we get stuck in the Van Zandegeul creek.

Westerschelde 20120726
The drowned land is surfacing again.

Westerschelde 20120726
Dragging our packrafts in search for navigable water.

Westerschelde 20120726
The pulling hike takes us to the next shallow creek.

Westerschelde 20120726
A stranded boat on a sandbar.

Westerschelde 20120726
Going ashore on the sandbar.

Westerschelde 20120726
What is he doing here?

Westerschelde 20120726
Two people in a stranded boat half a day waiting for next high tide. They even didn’t show up out of their boat.

Westerschelde 20120726
Never ending marine traffic.

Westerschelde 20120726
Giant buoys mark the sea lane for the marine ships and lie tilted in the flow between the tides.

Westerschelde 20120726
Briefly playing in the wake of the buoy. The current is so fast we just drifted away from the buoy no matter how hard we paddled.

Westerschelde 20120726
This giant took us by surprise as about one minute after I took this picture it pulled all the water out of the shallow Speelmansgat creek where we just had arrived and all of a sudden we just were stranded at the bottom of the creek until a wave train with up to 1,5m high waves quickly invaded into the creek again. Luckily we did not capsize but we sure were impressed. After that we stayed playing in the waves with every other ship passing by.

Westerschelde 20120726
At the end of our trip in the shallow Speelmansgat creek.

24 Grensmaas : 4 packrafts – 5 people

The Belgian packraft scene is ever growing. Steve & Katrijn and me agreed upon packrafting the Grensmaas from the Borgharen dam to the village of Maaseik at the last weekend of June. Then came Yves, telling us he had just bought a packraft. And then Michael Jackson could join us too at the last end (no this one is still alive). That would make 5 packrafters in 4 boats! Wait! Does that mean that one of the team had to swim? No! Steve & Katrijn like the honeymoon style.

Grensmaas 201206

Grensmaas 201206

We started Friday evening. Calm weather and so was the water. We reached the mouth of the river Geul at sunset where we met a perfect spot to put our tarps and shelters. An intimate camping night around a campfire with numerous beavers that circled around splashing on the water nearby. The water level of the river rose for 70cm overnight, enough to swallow our campfire, luckily not enough to invade into our shelters. Upstream dams always cause a source of concern when camping low to the water line. The next morning the water had well retreated.

Grensmaas 201206

On Saturday we had a welcome 4 Beaufort in our back. The water was warm so I even made a few swims with the packraft lined in my hand. The rapids were a good school for the less experienced among us. At the ferry crossing passed halfway we couldn’t resist the local Belgian “frituur” to fill our stomachs with a meal of delicious Belgian fries that made our last stretch to Maaseik pass effortless. Such a big river is always more fun to paddle with congenial companions. Certainly something we should repeat in the future.

Grensmaas 201206

Idyllic waterfalls and fairytale rock corridors – hiking the Müllerthal trail

Müllerthal Trail, trail number 2

Thursday and Friday, May 14-15, 2009.

Mullerthal 200905The Schiessentümpel waterfall.

In the evening I arrive in the Müllerthal valley and walk a bit around along the Black Ernz including a visit to the Schiessentümpel waterfall. Tomorrow I will make an early start to hike trail number 2 of the Müllerthal trail, a famous marked hiking trail in the east of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. This region bears the name Little Switzerland and is characterized by countless rock formations and picturesque wooded valleys with romantic creeks, even though the comparison with Switzerland is a bit strange to me.

Mullerthal 200905 The Eulenburg rock formation.

At six out of my bed and at seven on the trail. Along the Black Ernz river I walk to Schiessentümpel, the famous waterfall which show off proudly on post cards in leaflets everywhere around in Little Switzerland. The place still looks picturesque after 18 years, the last time I have visited the Müllerthal valley as a kid. Has it been that long? Then I had only eye for building dams in the river.

The trail runs straight up into the woods. It will become boring for a while I’m immediately thinking by myself, but nothing less seems to be true. The trail winds itself around and sometimes literally through corridors of calcareous sandstone rock formations, wearing fairylike names like Eulenburg, Goldfralay and Goldkaul. Near the mill of Consdorf someone is emptying buckets. The trail crosses a traffic road, lined with dense low fence along both sides. Every twenty meters a bucket has been put in the ground before the fence. I peer in each one I pass along but they are all empty. Workers along the road ask to our natural friend in the Luxembourg German dialect: “Und was gefangen?” Unfortunately no frogs have jumped into the traps today.

Mullerthal 200905
The Déwenpëtz corridors.

Along the Haerbaach creek I’m walking uphill again towards the rock formations of Deiwepoetz (also known as Dewenpëtz). The trail immediately runs into a narrow corridor in the rocks. I’m getting stuck with my backpack. I need to take it off and wring through the corridor while pushing my backpack ahead of me. After this first small corridor a second much longer and deeper one follows. At the end of the tunnel it gets so dark that I’m first thinking I must have missed the trail as the corridor seems to end in a dead point. While returning it still seems to be the right route. I get back into the corridor, now with my head lamp shining ahead. The corridor keeps going. It looks more lake caving what I’m doing. This is perhaps the finest passage of the Müllerthal trail. Passed the long corridor I leave the trail for a while to explore the underground circuit of the Kuelscheier cave. Yes, it’s not only corridors to explore here, there are small real caves too!

Mullerthal 200905
The longer and darker one of the Déwenpëtz corridors.

Through relicts of the Neolithic stone quarry of Haerdbierg I arrive on the plateau south of the village of Consdorf with wide meadow views. It doesn’t take long before the trail dives into the woods again where smaller rock formations line the valley. Shortly after noon I pass the village of Scheidgen and continue through the woods and the Deisterbaach valley towards the medieval town of Echternach.

Mullerthal 200905
The cave of Houllay.

Beyond Echternach more rock formation follow with astonishing names like the Wolf chasm and the Devil’s breach. When I walk into the Aesbach valley I encounter fellow hikers for the second time on the trail. Beyond the Labyrinth and the Pear head rock (yes the toponymy goes on) the canyon like valley shows its most beautiful side. The little creek ripples through a deep gorge while the trail keeps following the creek through the bottom of the ravine. Deep in the ravine, the trail suddenly climbs away from the creek where I reach the Houllay caverns. Suddenly thunder is roaring in the distance and when it soon begins to rain I decide to search for a spot to make camp. Under a high cliff above the ravine I pitch my Akto. The overhanging rock face keeps everything dry in the thunderstorm. A strong downpour is falling through the foliage when I prepare and eat dinner. In the evening I descend into the valley under my umbrellas to watch the swollen creek, now filled with brown water from the rain. The rain continues the whole evening, so I decide to go to sleep early.

Mullerthal 200905
The bivouac spot above the Houllay ravine.

Mullerthal 200905
Aesbech creek in the ravine.

Mullerthal 200905
A beautiful part of the trail along Aesbech creek.

I slept on roses, so I don’t know when it stopped raining yesterday evening. The trail soon leaves the forest and visits the village of Beaufort. It starts to rain again while passing the town. Passed the town, the path disappears into the woods again, descending down into another ravine. Here I take the time to leave the trail and explore the rock formations of Raiberhiel and Adlerhorst and their caves.

Mullerthal 200905
The trail follows a stairway into the chasm at the Predigstull rocks.

Mullerthal 200905
Endless trail…

Mullerthal 200905
…trough endless rock corridors.

At the Binzeltschloeff rock formation the rain becomes a downpour again and I search for a protruding rock to have a dry rest stop for a meal. A second downpour follows at the Predigstull rock and I stop again to hide for the rain. The rest of the afternoon I stroll through the rain in the direction of the Müllerthal valley while becoming soaking wet. The rain does no less to the trip however. Along the Ernz Noir I reach the Schiessentümpel waterfall again, and the trail has been rounded.

Mullerthal 200905
The Ernz Noir river in the Müllethal valley.

The Müllerthal trail is definitely one of the most and perhaps even the most beautiful trail in the whole of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. Strong hikers can hike the 35km long trail number 2 in a dayhike but I recommend to do it as an overnighter as there are so many interesting spots to explore along the trail. A recommended visit!

Mullerthal 200905
The Schiessentümpel waterfall once again.