An introduction to packrafting in Sarek national park

What the Brooks Range in Alaska means for packrafters in America, does Sarek National Park in Swedish Lapland for packrafters in Europe. Although I immediately have to put this statement into perspective. First of all, Sarek is a very small mountain area only compared to the Brooks Range, so the possibilities are not infinite here to what it may seem in Alaska. The area is not big enough to contain a river that can be paddled for many days in a row. And secondly, Sarek national park has regulations for visitors that will become more strict in the near future and will affect packrafting in the park drastically.

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Rapaselet in the Rapadalen valley. Packraft porn, isn’t it? However, all you see in the photo is actually prohibited to float!

A few months ago someone pointed me to these new regulations that will be imposed by the park staff starting on January 1st 2015. These new regulations prohibit to bring any type of watercraft into the park (see paragraph 4§ point 8.) which in other words means that packrafting will be totally illegal in Sarek over two years. This year and next year packrafting is still allowed, except on the Rahpaädno river downstream of the confluence with the Sarvesjåhkå river as can be derived from the current regulations.

Over the last year I’ve quite often received questions about the packraft possibilities in the park. It seems there will be a lot of packrafters over there this summer and undoubtedly also the summer after. You still have two chances to inflate your packraft in Sarek and paddle on its rivers legally, so I would say take your chance before it is too late!

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Rapadalen forms the main valley in Sarek.

The best time for packrafting in Sarek is definitely the first half of the summer (end of June and July) when water levels are usually high from the snow melt, resulting in extensive packraft possibilities. As the summer progresses into August, most of the snow in the mountains disappears and water levels gradually drop significantly to lower levels, apart from a few short episodes after abundant rainfall which always remain possible. During the month of September the average river discharge then keeps decreasing.

Rapaädno discharge

In the above graph you can see daily mean, maximum and minimum discharges of the Rahpaädno river in Sarek national park at the Litnok cabin (that is just upstream of the mountain Námmasj) measured during the period 1916-1945. During the last century Swedish explorer Axel Hamberg mapped the region for the Swedish government and installed a device overthere in the river to daily measure the water level. This graph is a result of his spadework.

I’ve only visited the park with my packraft during late August and September and have always met low water levels except from one short episode of high water after two days of heavy rain. From my experience I can say that only the Ráhpajåhkå / Rahpaädno river remains enjoyable during lower water. I’ve also paddled other rivers but these were not as enjoyable due to many portages that were needed at these limited flows. Yet as I keep being asked about the rivers, I will give a description of the rivers in the two biggest watersheds in Sarek as I have experienced them in my packraft and will give an estimate of the whitewater rating at average water levels (let’s say for what is average in July).

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Ahkajåhkå river in the Alggavagge valley.

Please don’t interpret this post as an encouragement to continue with packrafting illegally in Sarek after 2014. That is not my intention here! Furthermore, please keep in mind that the character of all rivers can vary greatly depending on the flow rate. So keep the whitewater ratings here only as a guideline to begin with. Hence my description may differ greatly from what you can experience at a different river discharge. Therefore I am obviously not responsible for any errors nor any negative consequences that may result from paddling any river based on my descriptions.

That all being said, I hope this post may still be helpful for anyone who plans to take its packraft to Sarek during the next two summers. And it would off course be appreciated if you could give your feedback after paddling a river. Best is to have Google Earth on your computer screen zoomed in to the specific river and the BD10 hiking map in front of you when following my descriptions. Most rapids can be recognized in Google Earth.


1) Ráhpaädno watershed

  • Smájllájåhkå (13km): class II becoming class III ending in a canyon that needs a portage.

The Smájllájåhkå river is the queen of all braided rivers in Sarek. It drains the meltwater of the Ruohtesjiegna glaciers and then mainly runs southeast through the Ruohtesvagge valley to change its name into Ráhpajåhkå at the confluence with the Guohperjåhkå river in the head of the Rapadalen valley. Its water is very opaque which makes it impossible to spot the river bottom, even in shallow water.

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River Smájllájåhkå in the Ruohtesvagge valley seen from the ridge of Kantberget.

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The braided Smájllájåhkå during autumn, shallow and milky.

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Many silt banks are encountered in the upper part of the river.

Under the face of the mountain Gavelberget, about 3 to 4km downstream from the glacial tongue of Oarjep Ruohtesjiegna, is usually a good spot to put in. You could probably start further upstream at high water levels, but the speed of the water flow in the braided channels is usually very high here. For the following 10km the river has a strong braided silt river bed with a relatively slow current and only contains a few easy class II rapids. Best time is to packraft at higher water levels since in case of low water you will get stuck on silt banks too often.

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Smajllajåhkå river seen from Jållok (1501m).

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Lower part of the river seen from the ridge of Gavabakte.

After about 10km, under the face of the mountain Jållok, the river suddenly becomes a fast and almost continuous class II-III single channel with moderate gradient and rock gardens. At the Mikkastugan cabin the river throws itself over several waterfalls into a dangerous canyon. Be aware to put out in time before the entrance of the canyon if you choose to run the whitewater till Mikkastugan. The canyon can be portaged along both sides. A permanent footbridge is constructed over the canyon at the Mikkastugan. From the end of the canyon the river slows down and starts to braid again (class I). A put in is possible just at the end of the canyon. Not much further the Guohperjåhkå river joins from the west and the name of the stream changes into Ráhpajåhkå.

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The whitewater just upstream from the canyon near Mikkastugan.

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The Smajllajåhkå throws itself into the canyon at Mikkastugan, Sarektjåhkkå (2089m) mountain in the background.

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The Skarja footbridge spans the canyon at the Mikkastugan.

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Put-in spot at the end of the canyon.

  • Guohperjåhkå (2km): class I

This tributary joins the Smájllájåhkå to form the Ráhpajåhkå south of Mikkastugan. The river shows a very varied character over its course, from waterfalls over swift braided parts and a narrow canyon to a slightly meandering section between swamps in the head of the Rapadalen valley. Only the last 2km of the river in Rapadalen is packraftable and worth a put in when coming from the west on foot. Afterwards you can continue over Ráhpajåhkå.

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The Guohperjåhkå river meanders between pools at the valley bottom of Rapadalen to join the braided Smájllájåhkå and give birth to the Ráhpajåhkå river. Mountain Bierikbakte (1789m) in the background.

  • Ráhpajåhkå (8.5km): Class I

Wide braided river bed with slow to swift current and few shallow channels. A few class II rapids may appear at higher water levels, otherwise there are no rapids worth mentioning. This part is in my opinion the most scenic packraft section in the entire park! This section ends under Spökstenen (indicated on the BD10 hiking map) where the braided channels suddenly join into a single channel and the river its name changes from Ráhpajåhkå to Ráhpaädno.

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Ráhpajåhkå river down Rapadalen valley seen from the Snavavagge.

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The river has a wide channel and many smaller braids.

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The braided work of mother nature.

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The mouth of Tjågnårisjågåsj creek into Rahpajåhkå river, Bierikbakte (1789m) in the background.

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End of the Rahpajåhkå section in the center left of the photo where the braids join again into a single channel. Sarvesvagge and Gådok mountains in the background.

  • Upper Ráhpaädno (6km): Class II with a short Class III rapid

The upper Ráhpaädno starts under Spökstenen where all channels join into a single channel and ends at the confluence with the Sarvesjåhkå river. The current suddenly increases at the start of the single channel. Rocks appear in the river bed resulting in frequent class II whitewater.

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First part of the Upper Rahpaädno river with some easy whitewater, the valley slope towards the Snavavagge in the background.

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Rocky river bed of the Rahpaädno under Låddebakte. At this spot I started my portage around the class III rapid.

A class III rapid is encountered after about 2km under a couloir in the face of the mountain Låddebákte, where several boulders have slid into the river bed. This rapid can be easily located from the river if you keep an eye on the couloir in the face of Låddebákte. Finding a place to put out before the rapid might be somewhat difficult at strong water flow, but you should manage to find a place to put out at either side otherwise. Make a short portage around the rapid and search for a place to put in behind it (you can try to run the rapid after scouting if you feel really confident).

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The short class III rapid of the upper Rahpaädno under Låddebakte at low water levels. The river is in reality bigger than it looks on the photo. Keep the birch trees in the background as reference.

Then a wide rock garden follows about 300m behind the rapid near the mouth of Jågåsjgaskajågåsj creek (now try to pronounce that correctly) which can be too shallow at lower water levels to pass through fluently. Afterwards the river splits up again in a few braids, the current gradually slows down and the difficulty level decreases gradually to class I near the confluence with the Sarvesjåhkå river.

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The river makes a few braids again while gradually slowing down towards the Sarvesjåhkå confluence.

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At the confluence with Sarvesjåhkå.

  • Rapaselet and lower Ráhpaädno: Class I becoming Class III

The entire river is forbidden to float downstream from the confluence with the Sarvesjåhkå regarding the actual park regulations. Hence I will not make any further detailed description here (I have only ferried the river here a few times and ran a short section), but if you still choose to float here be especially aware of the Class III canyon that follows after Rapaselet where a portage is necessary. Afterwards the river contains some more albeit short class III rapids.

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Rapaselet seen from Kanalberget (1937m).

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Rapaselet is what now remains from an ancient glacial lake in the Rapadalen valley. The river has filled the lake with sediments and now turquoise channels swing between shallow silt banks that come above water at low water levels.

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Start of the class III canyon downstream from Rapaselet.

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Rapadalen and lower Rahpaädno river with the isolated mountains Nammasj (823m) and Tjahkkelij (1214m).

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Fast current on the lower Rahpaädno after heavy rain.

  • Laitaure delta (7.6km): flat water

Below the isolated mountain Nammásj, the Ráhpaädno exits the park borders and is allowed to float again through its delta at the mouth into lake Laitaure. The river splits up into three main channels and several more smaller channels through the delta. Choose the middle channel when water levels are low as the right and left channel become too shallow. When there is a sufficient water flow through the delta, choose the right main channel if you want to join the Kungsleden trail to the south from the southern shore of Laitaure. Choose the left one if you aim for Aktse and the Kungsleden to the north. The left channel splits up into several smaller channels towards the end and so might make orientation difficult. Pay attention to the wind if you would take the middle channel as sudden strong winds can bring you into troubles more easily on the lake since you will have to paddle a longer distance to reach the shore of the lake from the mouth of the channel.

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The Laitaure delta filling up with new sediments at higher water and lake Laitaure in the background. You can clearly see the river split up into its three main channels.


2) Sijdoädno watershed

  • Guhkesvákkjåhkå (15km): class II with short class III rapid at the footbridge

The river becomes packraftable south of the Gássaláhko plateau where Várdasjåhkå river joins from the west. For the first 3.5km the river contains frequent dense rock gardens. At lower flows most of these rock gardens have to be portaged as there is no passage through them (they might be passable over the water at high water but I have no confirmation yet). If you prefer a fast progression through the valley you can better skip these rock gardens and put in behind the latest rock garden just upstream from the isolated hill Sarekvarasj.

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The point where Várdasjåhkå joins Guhkesvakkjåhkå.

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Shallow flat water connected by short rock gardens that you might need to portage.

After the latest rock garden near Sarekvarasj the river remains flat with a slow current and absence of obstacles for about 5km until the next rock garden (at the mouth of the creek Lulep Sarekjågåsj). After this class II rock garden a flat braided section follows. Almost 2km further downstream, rock gardens are interspersed with short sections of flat water. I was able to find a passage through all the rock gardens till the footbridge at low water levels, except from one where a portage was necessary. At the footbridge the river shows a short rocky class III rapid and splits up in several smaller rocky channels afterwards which only seem possible to run at higher water. I think it is a good decision to start a portage to lake Liehtjitjávrre from just before the bridge if you would like to continue on the Sijddoädno river.

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The river contains more rock gardens closer to the bridge.

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The class II rocky river bed of Guhkesvakkjåhkå just before the footbridge.

Sarek 2008
The footbridge with the class III rapid.

  • Sijddoädno (17km): class III with a class IV canyon

The outflow of lake Liehtjitjávrre at its northeast side forms the Sijddoädno river. This river is the second largest in Sarek after Ráhpaädno and is a mixed mess. It contains many rock gardens and best packraft possibilities are hence at high water levels. You should avoid the river in case of low water, even though I have paddled a large part of it at low water, I can not say it was quite enjoyable. Over the first 3km the river actually consists of a wide rocky channel connecting small lakes with each other. Three dense rock gardens are encountered which all need a portage at low water. The first rock garden after one kilometer has a height drop of several meters with whitewater pressed through sieves and pillows in a narrow channel between the rocks. This rock garden is best portaged along the left side. I think the other two rock gardens should not pose a major thread at higher water.

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The Sijddoädno river between the second and third rock garden.

900m behind the third rock garden (and after almost 3km from the lake), the river increases speed, rapids appear and a bit further the river then throws itself into a shallow canyon with a class IV rapid to flow into the lake Guordesluoppal afterwards. A long portage is necessary here to the lake to avoid the canyon.

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Start of the shallow class IV canyon.

From the outflow of this lake the river bed remains very rocky with several class II-III rapids of which the latest ones (you can easily recognize them in GE) towards lake Sitojaure should be portaged or at least scouted from the shore. The river finally flows into the lake Sitojaure through a small delta. The continuation of the river after Sitojaure lies outside the park.

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The rocky Sijddoädno above lake Sitojaure.

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Lake Sitojaure (630m) and the delta of Sijddoädno river.


3) Other watersheds

All other rivers I’ve already tried in Sarek did not have enough water flow to continue over a long section. Still I think the following rivers might provide opportunities when water levels are higher:
Suottasjjåhkå, Sjnjuvtjudisjåhkå, Sierggajåhkå , Sjpietjavjåhkå, Guohperjåhkå, Låvdakjåhkå, Låddejåhkå, Alggajåhkå, Alep Sarvesjåhkå, Miellädno, Njoatsosjåhkå, Sarvesjåhkå and Bierikjåhkå. So that is still a lot! If you ran any of these rivers, I would love to hear your experiences.

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Sjnjuvtjudisjåhkå river at very low autumn discharge. Mountain Nijak (1922m) in the background.

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The Njoatsosjåhkå river with the Bårdde mountains in the background. This river is the third biggest in Sarek.

And now not all at once to Sarek! 🙂

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Another wilderness trip through European Alaska

Today almost exactly 2 years ago I finished another long autumn trip through and around Sarek national park in Swedish Lapland after my trip from 2008 and a ski crossing during the preceding winter. This time I took my packraft with me and tried to follow a route with as much as packrafting sections as possible. Eventually I floated pieces of the rivers Guhkesvakkjåhkå, Sijddoädno, Miellädno, Smajllajåhkkå, Rahpajåhkå and Rahpaädno and crossed several lakes. Sarek is a real packraft paradise and can make you think you’re somewhere wilderness paddling in remote Alaska instead of Europe.

And as the rivers here invite you to inflate your inflatable boat, so do the mountains invite you during the clear weather windows to visit their summit for a wide mountain vista. I even spent three nights on a mountain and saw quite active northern light displays during each.

Just like with my first trip through Sarek I wrote a very long trip report about this trip, however unfortunately it is only available as a trip report in Dutch. But those really willing to read it will definitely find an appropriate online translator to struggle through it. Even though I have almost visited every corner of the park, I’m sure this last visit will not be my very last.

Packlist
All the gear and food for the trip except from worn clothing.

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Backpack ready for a new day hiking.

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Searching a route through the many rocks and small lakes on the Gassalahko mountain plateau.

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Suottasjjåhkå mountain stream under the glacial tongue of Suottasjjiegna, easy to ford with these low water levels. The mountain above the glacier is Såltatjåhkkå (1928m).

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Packrafting Guhkesvakkjåhkå river with often shallow water.

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Taking a break on the Sijddoädno river which was difficult to packraft due to many impassable boulder gardens.

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View northward from Namadis (818m) with the Sijddoädno river meandering through the valley, the mountain Guravarasj (1050m) on the left.

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Looking back towards the saddle (1066m) in the Bastavagge valley under Basstavarasj (1492m).

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Morning in the Basstavagge valley after a tarp bivouac on the snow.

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The mountains Unna Stuollo (1766m) and Skajdetjåhkkå (1933m) at dusk.

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First northern lights seen from the bivouac spot at lake Dielmajavrasj (1175m).

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View into the Sarvesvagge valley with at the opposite side the north face of Nåite (1620m) which dominates the whole east half of the valley.

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Prints of a wolverine in the snow while climbing Dielmatjåhkkå (1659m).

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View over a part of the Jågåsjgaskajiegna glacier with a glacial lake under Axel Hambergs topp (1821m), seen while climbing Kanalberget (1937m).

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The wild morainic debris in the Ridanjunjesvagge.

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Wet weather while reaching the outlet of the Sarvesvagge valley towards Padjelanta.

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The falls of Ahkkajåhkå river and the mountain Guohperskajdde (1644m).

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Ahkkatjåhkå (1974m) and the renvaktarstuga cabin under Algganjalmme.

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View into Padjelanta and onto Gasskatjåhkkå (1517m) in Norway from the summit of Låvdaktjåhkkå (1445m).

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Northern lights above Padjelanta seen from the summit of Låvdaktjåhkkå (1445m).

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The mountain Låvdaktjåhkkå (1445m) with its glacier remnants.

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Taking a midday break along the Sierggajåhkå mountain stream.

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The Ruohtesvagge valley and the mountains of the Sarektjåhkkå mountain massif seen from Gisuris (1664m).

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The Ahkka massif from Gisuris (1664m) around sunset.

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Lake Vastenjaure (547m) in Padjelanta National Park with the mountains surrounding Sorfjord in Norway at the horizon, seen from Gisuris (1664m) just after sunset.

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Making a mountain bivouac under the tarp on Gisuris (1664m).

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Aurora Borealis reflecting in lake Allohaure (545m) as seen from Gisuris (1664m).

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View over Padjelanta with the Sulitjelma mountains at the horizon seen from Gisuris (1664m).

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View to the north from Ahkka Borgtoppen (1963m) with the vast lake Akkajaure (423-453m) deep below.

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The lake plateau Gassalahko seen from Ahkka Borgtoppen (1963m).

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The mountain massifs of Lavdak, Ruohtes, Lanjek en Alkatj in Sarek seen from Ahkka Borgtoppen (1963m).

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Northern lights behind Ahkka Stortoppen (2015m), seen from Borgtoppen (1963m).

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Ahkka Stortoppen (2015m) during the late morning.

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A tundra vole liked my food cache. All the pecan nuts had disappeared from the desserts.

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Bivouac in the Ruohtesvagge valley under mountain Gavelberget (1819m).

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View over Mihkajiegna glacier to Sarektjåhkkå Stortoppen (2089m), Sydtoppen (2023m) and Bucht-toppen (2010m) from Mihkatjåhkkå (1735m).

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The braided Smajllajåhkå river down the Ruohtesvagge valley.

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The falls in the Smajllajåhkå river near Mikkastugan cabin with Sarektjåhkkå Stortoppen (2089m), Sydtoppen (2023m) and Bucht-toppen (2010m) in the background.

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The braided Rahpajåhkå river on the valley bottom of upper Rapadalen.

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Mouth of the mountain stream Tjågnårisjågåsj in Rahpajåhkå river with mountain Bierikbakte (1789m) in the background.

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Braided Rahpajåhkå river in Rapadalen with mountain Låddebakte (1537m) to the left.

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Looking back to the Rahpaädno river while hiking through the birch forest.

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An old Sami shelter in Rapadalen which can still be used today.

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A winding birch.

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Rapaselet with Låddebakte (1537m) in the background from a river island.

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My home made woodgas stove burning on birch bark.

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A moose with young in Rapadalen.

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A young male moose in the forest in Rapadalen.

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Rapadalen with Nammasj (823m) and Tjahkkelij (1214m) seen from Lulep Spadnek (816m).

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Part of the Laitaure delta and Nammasj (823m) seen from Skierffe (1179m).

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Packraft ready to float through the Laitaure delta, table mountain Tjahkkelij (1214m) on the background.

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View back to Nammasj from within the Laitaure delta.

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Morning at lake Sitojaure (630m) along the Kungsleden trail.

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A wide view back to lake Sitojaure from the Kungsleden trail.

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Last night of the trip in the Autsutjvagge shelter on the Kungsleden trail.

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Spot messenger at work.

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Continuing over the Kungsleden trail to Saltoluokta.

A ramble from summer into autumn

In August and September 2008 I went to Sarek national park for the first time. Sarek is a small and beautiful mountain wilderness area in Swedish Lapland which seems to reassemble very well the Brooks Range in Alaska and is therefore sometimes called European Alaska. For me personally, it is my favorite area in Europe for wilderness backpacking so far.

Sarek 2008
Upper Rapadalen from Spökstenen.

During the years I have developed a rather unusual way of making wilderness backpacking trips. When looking at the maps while planning at home, I can almost never choose a straight line through a certain mountain area. There are always too much places on the map which look so interesting that it would be regrettable to skip those places. Therefore I developed myself the habit to plan rather complex looking criss-cross routes through each area on which I’ve put my mind for a long wilderness backpacking trip, trying to see as much as I can by following such a complex route. When I was planning my first trip in Sarek, I couldn’t change that habit either.

Sarek 2008
Moose with calf in the forest of Rapadalen.

Eventually I made a trip of 27 days with only one small resupply at the mountain hut of Aktse just outside the park. My pack weighted 32kg at the start. Today I start to dislike such heavy weights to begin such a long trip, but back than I was still in perfect shape and strong and didn’t mind walking with weeks of food in my pack. Back home I spend one month writing my story about the trip based on field notes and my valuable memories. This trip report looks at the end more like a book than just a report. Unfortunately it was written in Dutch but those really interested can try to use a Dutch to your language translator and read the story here.

Sarek 2008
View over Rapaselet in Rapadalen valley from the mountain Låddebakte (1537m). Is this not like a packraft paradise?

Honestly, I’m a person who doesn’t really like to meet other people on a wilderness trip (but I’m not going to run away if someone appears). I like solitude, even for weeks in a row. I came across different opinions concerning whether you can experience a feeling of solitude on a trip through Sarek or not when I was preparing my first trip. In my experiences you can experience both solitude here as well as meet several people each or almost each day during the summer months. It just depends on which route you choose to take. There are eroded trails in the valleys which are frequented rather regularly, lets say daily during the summer months. But once you stroll away from these popular routes you can be alone for days or even more than a week. While walking during the day I have the habit to count the number of people I meet and happen to see from a distance each day, as well as the amount of wildlife I see. In the table below I have listed the number of people I saw each day on the trip. With the routemap you can have a better idea which part of the area has more frequented routes. Note that I walked on the very popular Kungsleden trail for two days just past halfway on the trip. The number of people you can meet here is certainly out of proportion compared to the popular routes in Sarek itself.

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Northern lights above Tjuoldavagge.

Date Number of people met
20 Aug 8
21 Aug 7
22 Aug 0
23 Aug 5
24 Aug 4
25 Aug 8
26 Aug 0
27 Aug 3
28 Aug 1
29 Aug 8
30 Aug 2
31 Aug 5
01 Sep 0
02 Sep 3
03 Sep 47 (all of them on Kungleden)
04 Sep 38 (all of them on Kungleden)
05 Sep 0
06 Sep 0
07 Sep 0
08 Sep 0
09 Sep 0
10 Sep 1
11 Sep 0
12 Sep 0
13 Sep 0
14 Sep 13 (all in Kvikkjokk)
15 Sep 1 (in Kvikkjokk)